Old Quarter connects to past

mid Hanoi's clamor, Old Quarter connects to past
By Mike Eckel, The Associated Press, 19 March, 2011

Close your eyes in the streets of Hanoi's Old Quarter and you'll experience two sensations. The first is the earsplitting cacophony of conversation, cars, clamor and chaos. The second is the realization that closing your eyes for very long in such a crowded place can be unwise, unless you enjoy being jostled, bumped, hustled, shouted at, or maybe even knocked down. Such is the Vietnamese capital, lurching into the 21st century with the swirl of unfettered street capitalism set to the soundtrack of Communist proclamations. Everywhere people are buying, selling, hawking goods and offering services, while nationalistic music and announcements about keeping streets clean play regularly in the background. Six million people live in this former colonial metropolis; add hundreds of thousands more who jammed Hanoi last fall for the celebration marking its 1,000th anniversary, and you sense that this already dizzying city is spinning into a new era.

This is not to say that traditions are endangered. The Old Quarter is arguably the epicenter for the city's connections to its past. Wander its criss-cross of streets — with tall trees, narrow buildings, louvered windows and people's lives spilling onto sidewalks — and you'll discover a district known as 36 Streets, named for the craft guilds that populated the neighborhood over the centuries, mixing Vietnamese and Chinese merchants and artisans together. Silk Street (Hang Gai), Silver Street (Hang Bac), Sails Street (Hang Buom), among others, all offer their crafts and other goods for tourists or locals. The Old Quarter's oldest building, the Bach Ma (White Horse) Temple, dates back to Hanoi's original incarnation as the imperial city of Thang Long — Soaring Dragon.

For culinary traditions, Cha Ca La Vong is a nondescript restaurant on Cha Ca Street that's been serving up one dish for more than a century. Sit down at a communal tables shared by random guests — common language not required — and forget the menu. Waiters bring out tabletop, gas-fired stoves in which chunks of marinated, turmeric-coated whitefish are fried in oil — by patrons themselves — along with dill, chives and other greens. Dump the mixture over rice noodles, top with peanuts and wash it down with a draft beer known as bia hoi. The fish itself doesn't deserve many superlatives and tourists have pushed up prices, but it's still worth the experience. You can also find bia hoi at the corner of Luong Ngoc Quyen and Dinh Liet streets, where backpacker tourists outnumber the Vietnamese sitting on the stools.

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This is not to say that traditions are endangered. The Old Quarter is arguably the epicenter for the city's connections to its past. Wander its criss-cross of streets — with tall trees, narrow buildings, louvered windows and people's lives spilling onto sidewalks — and you'll discover a district known as 36 Streets, named for the craft guilds that populated the neighborhood over the centuries, mixing Vietnamese and Chinese merchants and artisans together. Silk Street (Hang Gai), Silver Street (Hang Bac), Sails Street (Hang Buom), among others, all offer their crafts and other goods for tourists or locals. The Old Quarter's oldest building, the Bach Ma (White Horse) Temple, dates back to Hanoi's original incarnation as the imperial city of Thang Long — Soaring Dragon.